don’t shoot portraits on a regular basis but want something better than the kit lens that comes with your camera The lens doesn't show any visible distortion, a plus for one with such a wide aperture. There is some dimness at corners when shooting wide open. We see a -1.2EV drop at f/1.2 and a -1.1EV deficit at f/1.4 when comparing the corners of an image with the center. Conclusions

Switching to the body-based stabilisation of the EM1 delivered the best result of all, with a sharp image at exposures down to 1/5, representing three stops over my non-stabilised version. Leica Nocticron optical construction Under the conditions of the day, I could handhold a sharp result without any stabilisation at 1/40, which isn’t bad for me considering it’s a stop below what conventional wisdom would suggest for an 85mm equivalent lens. With the lens stabilisation enabled, I could achieve fair results down to 1/10, but they weren’t 100% sharp. Finding a lens for a Micro Four Thirds camera isn't hard—there have been hundreds of different types over the years. But there are some things to take into account.

Some mild chromatic aberration is present in images taken with both lenses up to around f/2.8 on the 45mm PRO and f/4 on the 45mm f/1.8 but it can be easily removed in post production.

The Four Thirds sensors used in Olympus and Panasonic mirrorless cameras mean the field-of-view of all lenses is effectively reduced by two times compared to a full-frame system – so a 25mm lens will deliver a 50mm equivalent field-of-view. If you’re looking to compare depth-of-field with full frame, then you’ll also need to double the f-number – so a 25mm f1.4 lens will deliver images with coverage and depth-of-field equivalent to a 50mm f2.8 lens on full frame. In terms of exposure though, an f-number on one system is the same as on another – the difference here refers only to equivalent coverage and depth-of-field. If you own a Nocticron though be happy as it is a phenomenal lens. I would not sell a Nocticron to fund the Olympus but if I were buying one for the 1st time, my choice would be easy today with the Olympus getting my cash. Without question.In terms of light gathering power, the f1.2 focal ratio of the Nocticron should in theory gather twice as much light as a lens at f1.8. It’s important to put that to the test though as some designs don’t always deliver what you’d expect. For example while I haven’t tested the Voigtlander myself, I have seen reports describing its light gathering power as being closer to f1.1 when wide open.